Top College News Subscribe to the Newsletter

Black is back in Vogue

Craft Style Files: Your Weekly Fashion News

Published: Thursday, May 1, 2008

Updated: Thursday, May 19, 2011 20:05

I originally intended on making this last Style Files of the year something light and breezy. The focus was supposed to be on swimwear and what the current trends are for this summer. Although that would be the best thing to write, easy to talk about and doesn't require much thought, there was a recent development within the fashion industry which I found to be slightly more important. I have discussed the issue of race in this column before. The fashion industry is notorious for only hiring white models when it comes to fashion shows and editorial shoots. The lily white pages of the fashion magazines had become targets from groups within the industry itself as only promoting white models.

There has also been the issue of only having one successful black model at a time. Whenever there were two or more black models coming up at the same time, the press managed to create faux drama between them, supporting the notion that only one could be dominant.

It felt like the industry was going backwards instead of forwards. Runways began to get whiter and whiter as we progressed into this decade. It became a sort of game, spot the black model. Most of the time it was next to impossible to find one.

With the success of models like Beverly Johnson, Iman, Naomi Campbell, and Tyra Banks, the industry began to back away from promoting equality among the models they would use. Liya Kebede was an exception of course, as she began nabbing magazine covers and lucrative contracts like one with Estee Lauder.

Since Liya there have been only two notable names. Chanel Iman and the current "It" girl of color Jourdan Dunn. Both represent the beauty of black women. Both unfortunately have been used as tokens. This tokenism leads some to make bold statements regarding the industry and the blind eye they have turned towards models of color.

It was just recently confirmed that Vogue Italia, with the help of famed photographer Steven Meisel, has shot an issue that consists of only black models. This development is a much needed breath of fresh air. This has to be some of the most exciting news to come from this industry in quite a while.

Vogue Italia's Editor-In-Chief, Franca Sozzani was quoted as saying she was doing this because no one else was and "because nobody is using black girls." Meisel shot Jourdan Dunn for the cover as Vogue.com confirmed. All of this has been done for their July 2008 issue.

Saying that this is ground breaking would be an understatement. It has not been confirmed as to whom the other models are, but it is known that Dunn along with Iman is going to be in the issue.

The buzz began last week, mainly on fashion blogs and among industry insiders. It was then confirmed at the end of last week, and since then has been the topic of conversation.

The desicion to use only black models is one that will go down in the history of this industry. It is somewhat sad that Anna Wintour's Vogue could not have made this choice before. She is the premier fashion editor. She is revered in the industry, but clearly she is behind the times when it comes to creating a more diverse publication.

I will be the first to admit that I was more than excited when I heard the news. The discussion about black models and the industry is nothing new. There had been several conferences and discussions about it. People like Naomi Campbell and Andre Leon Talley, who is Editor-at-Large of Vogue, have been a part of panel discussions that addressed the lack of color on the runways.

Someone has finally addressed this issue head on. Who knew that it would take a tiny Italian woman to jump start this trend? Well, I don't know if it could be referred to as a trend just yet. Hoepfully more fashion magazines around the world will follow suit.

Fashion is all about change and reinvention, this is one of the largest, most significant changes of recent memory.

Recommended: Articles that may interest you

Be the first to comment on this article!







log out