The stage was set for the grand finale of this quite interesting fashion season. After several weeks, and hundreds of collections, all eyes were on Paris to close out this season with a bang.
With over 50 collections shown over a six day period, trying to breakdown each collection and present those that stood out is quite a daunting task. Luckily there were ones that shown much brighter than others.
Albert Kriemler's collection for Akris had a truly understated elegance to it. The label is known for using luxurious fabrics and their sharp tailoring. This was seen in numerous dresses made of silk georgette and the sharply tailored jackets and pants. Kriemler also was on trend with his use of sheer fabrics and playing with transparency which was enhanced by his color palette of icy blue, gray, nude, and white. The overall effect was an air of chic simplicity.
After his stellar showing for Fall, Alexander McQueen sent out a Spring collection that was jaw dropping. The opening pass of tailored suits and dresses with wood prints, and the soft, feminine pink and yellow flowers layered beneath nude shifts fully displayed McQueen's eye for romanticism. The black and amber crystal-encrusted bodysuits and dresses were absolutely phenomenal. Throw in the gray dégradé and pink fringe dresses and you have collection that exceeded all expectations.
What is there to say about what Nicolas Ghesquire has done at Balenciaga that hasn't already been said? Season after season he has managed to create collections that gets the imaginations of all women working overtime. It is not uncommon for every woman in the audience to silently covet everything that comes down the runway. This season was all about the exploration of shape and texture. There were matte finishes and tissue thin fabrics that seemed otherworldly. You could say that it was almost a sci-fi collection, but that would be selling collection short.
Christophe Decarnin has injected some much needed life in Balmain since he took over in 2006. Last season's collection was sexual and edgy without being vulgar. He continued down that path sending out clothes that were, as Sarah Mower described, "all bling and rock-chick fabulousness." These clothes are for the quintessential party girl who still has a shred of dignity about her. Mini dresses, crystal studded sheaths, super skinny jeans, and sky high heels combined with Decarnin's couture eye enhanced the collection tenfold.
Chanel, under Karl Lagerfeld's keen eye, continuously pumps out hit after hit. There was a nice range of looks, and Lagerfeld was still on trend like most designers this season, but he also made the trends his own. There were metallics and transparency but done in a way that still spoke to the refined sensibility that is Chanel. This collection seemed to be just another walk in the park for Mr. Lagerfeld.
John Galliano took a leap forward 20 years from his 1960s inspired Fall collection for Dior. It was all about the glamazonian 1980s this Spring. Models strutted down the runway in bodysuits and short, transparent skirts. There were animal prints, leather corseted bodices, and sky high heels that triggered memories of what Gaultier, Ala'a, and Versace did in the late 1980s. Galliano will have to add slips underneath all of the sheer skirts before the clothes hit stores though. Not many women will want to walk around with their underwear exposed.
Giambattista Valli's talent is remarkable and his ability to use couture technique on ready to wear clothes speaks volumes, literally. His Spring 2009 collection, mainly in a palette if cream and black, was purely feminine and refined. Layers of petticoats propped up girly party dresses reminiscent of 1950s dance dresses. The finale gowns, created from yards of multi-tiered tulle, looked like perfect sugary confections. Pure, luxurious femininity at its best.
Riccardo Tisci has achieved what most young designers only dream about. His time at Givenchy has gone from trying to prove himself the fashion elite to causing mobs backstage after his shows. Givenchy has reentered the fashion vernacular after an uncertain future earlier this decade. Tisci described the Spring 2009 collection as "western bondage." This was seen in the skin tight jean/leather chaps hybrids that came down the runway. If that is too extreme for your tastes, puff sleeves and sharply tailored jackets and pants rounded out a marvelous collection.
Herms jumped on the cowboy bandwagon with some of the chicest western wear seen during the collections. There was plenty of fringe and cowboy boots, but the collection also tied in the house's equestrian history.
Gaultier turned it out with a luxurious collection that fulfills the inner cowgirl of all women.
Alber Elbaz's collections for Lanvin display the designer's intellectual side. You can see in each look the thought process that goes into it. The beautiful voluminous shapes that emphasized the body were exquisite. Lanvin is known for their chic, sophisticated clothing and this collection was no exception.
Other standout collections were Louis Vuitton, Yves St. Laurent, Miu Miu, and Nina Ricci. Paris came through for Spring 2009.
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